Page 13 - Reside Magazine Briggs Freeman
P. 13

Reside — Fall 2025









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                                                  be incredibly rare or with a distinguished   There are opportunities in antique
                                                                             i
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                                                  provenance—maybe from a royal collection,”
                                                  provenance—maybe from a royal collection,”   jewels or any piece older than 100 years,
                                                  Becket says. As a general rule, high jewels   says Becket, because, while rare, they remain
                                                  Becket says. As a general rule, high jewels
                                                  boast rarity, provenance or the signature   relatively a—ordable. This goes for jewels

                                                  boast rarity, provenance or the signature
                                                  of a top maker. Rare and sizable stones,   from the retro period of the late 1930s and
                                                  such as the 10.3-carat Mediterranean   1940s, too. “It’s the period that everyone
                                                  Blue—a vivid blue diamond that sold at   who works in the industry really loves,” she
                                                  Sotheby’s Geneva in May 2025—also qualify.  says. “They didn’t have much in the way of

                                                     But every jewelry sale re…ects the   materials during World War II. Platinum was

                                                          market’s evolving tastes, whether   scarce because it was used in the war e—ort.
                                                           it’s in Hong Kong, home to more   So you had these big yellow-gold looks.”
                                                          contemporary jewels; Geneva,     As a newcomer building a collection,
                                                        a bastion of antique and royal pieces   it’s important to clarify your goal, Becket
                                                     (“It’s not a Geneva sale without a tiara,”   says. “Do you want to have your classic
                                                  Becket says); or New York, which often   jewelry wardrobe? In which case, you’re
                                                  features all of the above.           going to have your diamond studs,

                                                     For buyers, there are a few key trends   pearls—which you can buy quite a—ordably
                                                  to keep in mind, says Becket. “When I joined   these days—and a great chunky gold
                                                  in 2005, and in the years prior, art deco was   bracelet.” But there’s a case to be made
                                                  perennially in style, and it makes sense—it’s   for the character of your collection, too.
                                                  about such classic, relatively simple forms.   “You sometimes learn more about the
                                                  But for the ”rst time last year, we noticed   personality of the owner from a Van Cleef

                                                  a slight softening in the deco market,” she   scarecrow brooch versus their 10-carat
                                                  says. “Jewelry tends to go in arcs of about   diamond ring.”

                                                  seven years. Bulgari has been on ”re for ”ve   Victoria Gomelsky is editor-in-chief of JCK

                                                  or so years. And that has overlapped with   and also writes for The New York Times
                                                  the popularity of bold and gold jewels.”  and Robb Report
                                                                                                     Clockwise from top left: Gold and
                                                                                                   enamel pendant necklace, c1897, by
                                                                                                    René Lalique; Lucky Alhambra gold
       Photos: Courtesy Sotheby’s.  Photos: Courtesy Sotheby’s.                                   sold for US$21.5 million at Sotheby’s
                                                                                                  and hardstone bracelet and necklace
                                                                                                   by Van Cleef & Arpels; the 10.3-carat
                                                                                                   Mediterranean Blue diamond, which
                                                                                                  Geneva; enamel and diamond bangle

                                                                                                    by Schlumberger for Ti‘any & Co;
                                                                                                       emerald and diamond “Classic


                                                                   11                              Butter“y” pendant-earclips by Gra‘
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