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in a waterfront home that he lovingly describes
                                                                                 as the “Grey Gardens of Provincetown.”
                                                                                      Three years ago, with his husband Kurt
                                                                                 Wootton, Fulk bought and restored the former
                                                                                 home of Mary Heaton Vorse, a journalist and
                                                                                 labor organizer, turning it into an eight-bedroom
                                                                                 artist  residence,  with  portions  of  the  house
                                                                                 and  grounds  available  for  use  by  local  arts
                                                                                 organizations. Its first resident was the model
                                                                                 and actor Hari Nef, most recently seen as Dr
                                                                                 Barbie in the Barbie movie, whose writing has
                                                                                 appeared in the New York Times and Artforum.
                                                                                      Fulk’s  list  of  things  to  do  and  see  in
                                                                                 Provincetown  includes  wholesome  outdoor
                                                                                 activities such as hiking the dunes, swimming
                                                                                 in the breakwater at the far west end of town,
                                                                                 and taking Art’s Dune tour of the famous Dune
                                                                                 shacks.  There’s  also  practical  advice,  from
                                                “
                                                                                 renting a bike (a must for getting around in
                                                                                 summer) to where to get coffee (Kohi or Joe), or
                                                         a casual meal (Liz’s Cafe for breakfast, or The Canteen at the beach). His guilty
                                                         pleasures include the cupcakes at Relish and an ice cream at Lewis Brothers,
                                                         while restaurant recommendations range from newcomer Freemans (“more
                      RESTAURANT                         sophisticated than your typical beach town experience and the place to see
                                                         and be seen”) to The Red Inn (for “Old Cape Cod ambience”) and perennial
                     SAL’S PLACE IS                      favorite Sal’s Place, a cash-only establishment situated on an old wharf (“it’s
                                                         like dropping into the best dinner party in town”).
                                                             Navigating Provincetown’s gallery scene can be tricky; there are many.
                  LIKE DROPPING                          Fulk suggests popping into Kiley Court to take in landscapes by Robert and
                                                         Julien Cardinal, William-Scott to view works by local legend John Dowd,
                   INTO THE BEST                         and Berta Walker, whose parents helped found the The Fine Arts Work
                                                         Center and who now represents many iconic 20th-century painters.
                    DINNER PARTY                         is densely packed on Commercial Street. Highlights include: Respoke for
                                                             There’s a surprising amount of retail for a very small town, most of which
                                 IN TOWN                 espadrilles and hats crafted from Hermès scarves; Clove & Creek for simple
                                               ”         rare signed copies by Mary Oliver to coffee table books and easy beach reads.
                                                         yet sophisticated housewares; Utilities for every imaginable kitchen and cocktail
                                                         item; and Tim’s Used Books, hidden down an alley—that has everything from

                                                             John  Derian’s  perfectly  styled  shop,  featuring  his  own  decoupage
                                                         collection, as well as pieces by French ceramics company Astier de Villatte, is
                                                         located on a blink-and-you’ll-miss it side street (technically the back of his
                                                         18th-century home). A native of Watertown, Massachusetts, Derian has


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