Page 47 - Reside Magazine Briggs Freeman
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                                                             commercial galleries Dirimart and Öktem Aykut. Further along is Galerist,
                                                             a space dedicated to contemporary Turkish artists.
                                                                 “There is a vibrant cultural ecosystem in Beyoğlu that continuously
                                                             adapts and evolves,” says Ümit Mesci, a curator at Istanbul Modern, the city’s
                                                             f lagship contemporary art institution. The museum temporarily hosted
                                                             exhibitions in the Union Française while its new Renzo Piano-designed building
                                                             was under construction on the Karaköy waterfront. Here, the Galataport
                                                             cruise terminal, which opened in 2021, is home to more restaurants and
                                                             retailers,  including  the  f lagship  store  of  Siedrés,  an  Istanbul-founded
                                                             luxury  clothing  brand.  “The  museum’s  reopening  two  years  ago  is  part
                                                             of a broader revival, reflecting a community that embraces change, while
                                                             respecting its rich heritage,” Mesci says.
                                                                 The arts have long been a key part of Beyoğlu’s identity, from the opera
                                                             houses, theaters and concert hallswhere Istanbulites first saw Western music
                                                             performed in the 1800s to the cabarets and nightclubs of the Jazz Age. Not
                                                             forgetting the mid-century heyday of the Yeşilçam film industry, Turkey’s
                                                             answer to Hollywood.
            Above: Michelin-listed meze restaurant               Turkish TV and movie crews can often still be found filming scenes on
            Aheste serves big  avors on small plates

                                                             character-filled streets. On Serdar-ı Ekrem Caddesi in Galata, the bold
            Top: The work of Turkish video                   yellow  Italianate  Doğan  Apartment,  constructed  in  1894  for  a  Belgian
            artist Ali Kazma at Istanbul Modern
            Photography Gallery                              banking family, presides over an ever-shifting array of shops, cafes, offices
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